As my mom and I waited patiently in what
felt like a mile-long line, trailing out the door, down the ramp and nearly
onto Farnsworth Street, I began to contemplate what I wanted. I had been baking
Ms. Chang’s recipes for months now and this was my chance to finally try the
original masterpieces. Upon reaching the display case, I started examining the
array of goods, cookies on cookies, cakes on cakes, tarts on tarts. There were
so many options; sweet, savory, breakfast or late night dessert. I just
couldn’t decide. Only one dessert was not an option. So, we settled on a
sampler. One of the desserts we chose caught my eye immediately; pop tarts.
They were stacked in such a way; one could have mistaken the arrangement for a
food photo shoot. They looked irresistible.
You might be thinking, pop tarts really?
Yes, really. Now these aren’t just any pop tarts. And no they are not like the
processed kind you find in the cereal aisle of the grocery store. I would actually
compare these more to individual sized strudels. They are light and flakey with
a smooth, warm filling adorned with a glossy glaze. I made two different kinds;
strawberry balsamic and apple brown sugar cinnamon.
The recipe starts with the flakey,
buttery tart itself, which a Pâte Brisée. I recommend you keep this recipe in
your files, its great for pie tarts also!
Pâte Brisée
(Adapted from Joanne Chang)
Yields about 18 ounces dough,
enough for 8 pop-tarts
1 3/4 cups (245 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (2 sticks / 228 grams) cold
unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces
2 egg yolks
3 tablespoons cold milk
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a handheld
mixer), mix together the flour, sugar, and salt for 10 to 15 seconds, or until
combined. Scatter the butter over the top. Mix on low speed for 1 to 1 1/2
minutes, or just until the flour is no longer bright white and holds together
when you clump it.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and milk until blended.
Add to the flour mixture all at once. Mix on low speed for about 30 seconds, or
until the dough just barely comes together. It will look really shaggy and more
like a mess than a dough.
Dump the dough out onto an un-floured work surface, gather it together
into a tight mound. Using your palm and starting on one side of the mound,
smear the dough bit by bit, starting at the top of the mound and then sliding
your palm down the side and along the work surface (in the Flour cook book this
is called “going down the mountain”), until most of the butter chunks are
smeared into the dough and the dough comes together. Do this once or twice on
each part of the dough, moving through the mound until the whole mess has been
smeared into a cohesive dough with streaks of butter.
Gather up the dough into a ball, press down to flatten into about a 1-inch
thick disk and wrap it in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours before
using. The dough will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the
freezer for up to 1 month.
While the dough is refrigerating you
must make/prepare the fillings. The strawberry-balsamic recipe is a little
simpler, as the filling is simply a dollop of strawberry-balsamic jam from
Stonewall Kitchen; it's just as refreshing as regular strawberry jam with a
slightly sour tang that dilutes the over the top sweetness (any jam will work,
it’s preference). The apple cinnamon filling unfortunately has a few more
steps, that are totally worth it. The key is using Granny Smith apples; the
bite of these apples is so unique that it really adds another layer of flavor
to the pop tarts. (If you don’t have them IT'S OK, any apple will suffice).
Apple Cinnamon Filling
(Adapted from Joanne Chang)
Yields enough filling for 8 pop tarts
3
tbsp unsalted butter
2
Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
1/2
cup packed light brown sugar
1 egg
1 egg
1/2
tsp cinnamon
1/8
tsp salt
1/2
cup all purpose flour
In a medium saucepan melt the butter over high heat. Add the
apples and toss for 2-3 minutes. Add the sugar and toss for another 3-4
minutes until the sugar has melted. Remove from heat and let cool for at least a half hour until its not longer hot to the touch. Add the egg, cinnamon, salt and flour to the apple mixture with a rubber spatula until the ingredients are completely incorporated.
Now its time for the fun part, assembling the pop tart.
Pop tarts
(Adapted from Joanne Chang)
Yields 8 pop tarts
Pâte Brisée (recipe above)
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup (340 grams) strawberry balsamic jam
Apple Cinnamon Filling
After at least 4 hours have lapsed, remove the dough from the
refrigerator and position a rack in the center of the oven, set to 350 degrees
F.
Remove the plastic wrap and divide the dough in half. Press each half
into a rectangle. On a lightly floured surface, roll out each half into a
14-by-11-inch rectangle. Using a paring knife, lightly score 1 rectangle into
eight 3 1/2-by-5 1/2-inch rectangles (about the size of an index card).
Brush the top surface of the entire scored rectangle with the egg; spoon
1-2 tablespoons of the jam, or the apple-cinnamon filling, in a mound in the
center of each scored rectangle. Lay the second large dough rectangle directly
on top of the first. Using fingertips, carefully press down all around each jam
mound, so the pastry sheets adhere to each other.
Using a pizza roller (or a knife if you don’t have one) following the
scored lines, cut the layered dough into 8 rectangles. Place the rectangles,
well spaced, on a baking sheet.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the tops of the pastries are evenly
golden brown. Let cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack for about 30 minutes.
Finishing touch, the glaze! A glaze is probably the easiest thing to
make, especially after you’ve already mastered the rest of this recipe.
Simple Vanilla Glaze for Strawberry Balsamic Pop Tarts
(Adapted from Joanne Chang)
Yields enough glaze for 8 pop tarts
1 cup (140 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 to 3 tablespoons water
While the pastries are cooling, in a small bowl, whisk together the
confectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and enough of the water to make a smooth,
pourable glaze. You should have about 1/2 cup. (The glaze can be made ahead and
stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.)
Cinnamon Glaze for Apple
Cinnamon Pop Tarts
(Adapted
from Joanne Chang)
Yields
enough glaze for 8 pop tarts
1
cup (140 grams) confectioners’ sugar
2
to 3 tablespoons water
1/4
tablespoon cinnamon
Whisk together the three ingredients until everything is well
incorporated and the glaze is pourable but not overly watery. If it is too
watery, it will not adhere to the pop tart and will just slip off the sides. To
avoid this, add the water in increments rather than adding 2-3 tablespoons all
at once. Also, don’t hesitate to add more sugar, if you think it needs more
sugar, it probably does. J
When the pastries have cooled for about 15 minutes, brush the tops
evenly with the glaze. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes to allow the glaze to set
before serving.
The pastries can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature
for up to 2 days.
I hope you enjoy this fun, reinvented childhood favorite!
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